FAQs

1. How to Eliminate Exterior Alligatoring?

Description: Patterned cracking in the surface of the paint film resembling the regular scales of an alligator. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Application of an extremely hard, rigid coating, like an alkyd enamel, over a more flexible coating, like a latex primer.
• Application of a top coat before the undercoat is dry. Natural aging of oil-based paints as temperatures fluctuate. The constant expansion and contraction results in a loss of paint film elasticity.

SOLUTION: Our painters will remove alligatoring by scraping and sanding; priming entire surface with high quality oil-based primer, then painting with a top quality exterior latex paint.

2. How to remove exterior cracking / flaking?

Description: The splitting of a dry paint film through at least one coat, which will lead to complete failure of the paint. Early on, the problem appears as hairline cracks; later, flaking of paint chips occurs. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Application of an extremely hard, rigid coating, like an alkyd enamel, over a more flexible coating, like a latex primer.
• Application of a top coat before the undercoat is dry. Natural aging of oil-based paints as temperatures fluctuate. The constant expansion and contraction results in a loss of paint film elasticity.

SOLUTION: Our painters will remove alligatoring by scraping and sanding; priming entire surface with high quality oil-based primer, then painting with a top quality exterior latex paint.

3. How to prevent exterior peeling?

Description: Loss of paint due to poor adhesion. Where there is a primer and top coat, or multiple coats of paint, peeling may involve some or all coats. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Excess moisture escaping through the exterior walls (more likely if paint is oil-based).
• Inadequate surface preparation.
• Painting over a dirty surface (wax, mildew, grease, chalk).
• Use of lower quality paint.
• Applying an oil-based paint over a wet surface.
• Earlier blistering of paint (see Blistering).

SOLUTION: Our painters will prepare surface by removing all loose paint with scraper and sand rough edges, and apply appropriate primer. Repaint with a top quality acrylic latex exterior paint for best adhesion and water resistance.

4. How to remove exterior wrinkling?

Description: A rough, crinkled paint surface occurring when paint forms a “skin.” POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Paint applied too thickly (more likely when using alkyd or oil-based paints).
• Painting a hot surface or in very hot weather.
• Exposure of uncured paint to rain, dew, fog or high humidity levels.
• Applying top coat of paint to insufficiently dried first coat. Painting over contaminated surface (e.g., dirt or wax).

SOLUTION: Our painters will scrape and sand substrate to remove wrinkled coating. Primer all bare wood and repaint, applying an even coat of top quality exterior paint. Apply paints at the manufacturer’s recommended spread rate (two coats at the recommended spread rate are better than one thick coat). When painting during extremely hot, cool or damp weather, allow extra time for the paint to dry completely.

5. How to eliminate exterior mildew?

Description: Black, gray or brown areas of fungus growth on the surface of paint or caulk. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Forms most often on areas that tend to be damp, and receive little or no direct sunlight (walls with a northerly exposure and the underside of eaves are particularly vulnerable).
• Use of a lower quality paint, which may have an insufficient amount of mildewcide.
• Failure to prime bare wood before painting.
• Painting over a substrate or coating on which mildew has not been removed.

SOLUTION: Our painters will treat the mildew by applying a mixture of water and bleach, 3:1, and leave on for 20 minutes, applying more as it dries and rinse the area. Apply an exterior latex primer, then a top-of- the-line exterior latex paint.

6. How to remove exterior chalcking?

Description: Formation of fine powder on the surface of the paint film during weathering, which can cause color fading. Although some degree of chalking is a normal, desirable way for a paint film to wear, excessive film erosion can result from heavy chalking. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Use of a low-grade, highly pigmented paint.
• Use of an interior paint for an outdoor application.

SOLUTION: Our painters will remove the chalk residue using soap and power washing equipment. If noticeable chalk is still present, we will apply a quality oil-based (or comparable sealer for masonry), then repaint with a quality exterior coating; if little or no chalk remains and the old paint is sound, no priming is necessary.

7. How to remove exterior blistering?

Description: Bubbles resulting from localized loss of adhesion, and lifting of the paint film from the underlying surface. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Painting a warm surface in direct sunlight.
• Application of oil-based or alkyd paint over a damp or wet surface.
• Moisture escaping through the exterior walls (less likely with latex paint than with oil-based or alkyd paint).
• Exposure of latex paint film to dew, high humidity or rain shortly after paint has dried, especially if there was inadequate surface preparation.
• Our painters will remove the source of moisture by scraping, then sanding, repair loose caulking prime bare wood and repaint with a quality latex exterior paint.

8. How to prevent poor alkai resitence

Description: Color loss and overall deterioration of paint film on fresh masonry. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Oil-based paint or vinyl acrylic latex paint was applied to new masonry that has not cured for a full year. Fresh masonry is likely to contain lime which is very alkaline. Until the lime has a chance to react with carbon dioxide from the air, the alkalinity of the masonry remains so high that it can attack the integrity of the paint film.

SOLUTION: Allow masonry surfaces to cure for at least 30 days, and ideally for a full year, before painting. If this is not possible, our painters should apply a quality, alkali-resistance sealer or latex primer, followed by a top quality 100 percent acrylic latex exterior paint. The acrylic binder in these paints resists alkali attack.

9. How to remove surface leaching?

Description: Concentration of water-soluble ingredients on latex paint, creating a blotchy, sometimes glossy appearance, often with a tan or brownish cast. More likely with tinted paints than with white or factory-colored paints. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Painting in cool, humid conditions or just before they occur. The longer drying time allows the paint’s water-soluble ingredients – which would normally evaporate, or be leached out by rain or dew – to rise to the surface before paint thoroughly dries.
• Mist, dew or other moisture drying on the painted surface shortly after it has dried.

SOLUTION: Avoid painting in the late afternoon if cool, damp conditions are expected in the evening or overnight. If the problem occurs in the first day or so after the paint is applied, the water-soluble material can sometimes be rinsed off rather easily. Fortunately, even more stubborn cases will generally weather off in a month or so. Sufactant leaching should not affect the ultimate durability of the coating.

10. How to prevent paint incompatibly?

Description: Loss of adhesion where many old coats of alkyd or oil-based paint receive a latex top coat. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Use of water-based latex paint over more than three or four coats of old alkyd or oil-based paint may cause the old paint to “lift off” the substrate.

SOLUTION: Our painters will completely remove the existing paint and prepare the surface – cleaning, sanding and spot-priming where necessary – before repainting with a top quality latex exterior paint.

1. How to remove interior cracking / flaking?

Description: The splitting of a dry paint film through at least one coat as a result of aging, which ultimately will lead to complete failure of the paint. In its early stages, the problem appears as hairline cracks; in its later stages, flaking occurs. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Use of lower quality paint that has inadequate adhesion and flexibility.Overthinning or overspreading the paint.
• Inadequate surface preparation, or applying the paint to bare wood without first applying a primer. Excessive hardening and embrittlement of alkyd paint as the paint job ages.

SOLUTION: Our painters will remove loose and flaking paint with a scraper, sanding the surface and feathering the edges. If the flaking occurs in multiple layers of paint, We’ll filler all necessary area. Prime bare wood areas before repainting. Use of a top quality primer and top coat should prevent a recurrence of the problem.

2. How to remove interior mud cracking?

Description: Deep, irregular cracks resembling dried mud in dry paint film. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Paint applied too thickly, usually over a porous surface.
• Paint applied too thickly, to improve inherent poor hiding (coverage) of a lower quality paint.
• Paint is allowed to build up in corners upon application.

SOLUTION: Our painters will remove coating by scraping and sanding. Prime and repaint, using a top quality latex paint. Mud-cracked areas can also be repaired by sanding the surface smooth before repainting with a top quality latex paint. This type of paint is likely to prevent recurrence of mud cracking, because it is relatively more flexible than alkyd paint, oil-based paint and ordinary latex paint. Quality paints have a higher solids content, which reduces the tendency to mud crack. They also have very good application and hiding properties, which minimize the tendency to apply too thick a coat of paint.

3. How to prevent caulk failure?

Description: Loss of caulk’s initial adhesion and flexibility, causing it to crack and/or pull away from the surfaces to which it applied. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Use of lower quality caulk.
• Use of wrong type of caulk for a particular application (e.g., using latex or vinyl caulk in areas where there is prolonged contact with water or considerable movement of the caulked surfaces).

SOLUTION: Florida painting only use a top quality water-based all-acrylic or siliconized acrylic caulk if prolonged contact with water is not anticipated. These caulks are flexible enough to adapt to minor fluctuations in the substrate, stretching in gaps that widen slightly over time. They also adhere to a wide range of interior building materials, including wood, ceramic tile, concrete, glass, plaster, bare aluminum, brick and plastic. Note: Silicone caulk should not be painted.

4. How to prevent blocking?

Description: Undesirable sticking together of two painted surfaces when pressed together (e.g., a door sticking to the jamb). POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Not allowing sufficient dry time for the coating before closing doors or windows.
• Use of low quality semigloss or gloss paints.

SOLUTION: Florida Painting only use top quality semigloss or gloss acrylic latex paint. Low quality latex paints can have poor block resistance, especially in warm, damp conditions.Ours painters follow paint label instructions regarding dry times. Acrylic latex paints generally have better early block resistance then vinyl latex paints or alkyd or oil-based paints; however, alkyds develop superior block resistance over time. Application of talcum powder can relieve persistent blocking.

5. How to remove mildew?

Description: Black, gray or brown spots or areas on the surface of paint or caulk. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Forms most often on areas that tend to be damp, or receive little or no direct sunlight (e.g., bathrooms, kitchens and laundry rooms).
• Use of an alkyd or oil-based paint, or lower quality latex paint.
• Failure to prime bare wood surface before applying the paint.
• Painting over a substrate or coating on which mildew has not been removed.

SOLUTION: Our painters will remove all mildew from the surface by scrubbing with a diluted household bleach solution (one part bleach, three parts water).Rinse thoroughly. To protect against mildew, We’ll use a top quality latex paint.

6. How to prevent picture framing?

Description: An effect of non uniform color that can appear when a wall is painted with a roller, but is brushed at the corners. The brushed areas generally appear darker, resembling the “frame” of a “picture.” Also, sprayed areas may be darker than neighboring sections that are brushed or rolled. Picture framing can also refer to sheen effects. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Usually a hiding (coverage) effect. Brushing will generally result in lower spread rates than rolling, producing a thicker film and more hiding.
• Adding colorant to a non tintable paint or using the wrong type or level of colorant, resulting in variation in color, depending on method of application.

SOLUTION: Our painters are professional experienced and don’t cut in the entire room before roller coating. We work in smaller sections of the room to maintain a “wet edge.”

7. How to prevent poor flow / leveling?

Description: Failure of paint to dry to a smooth film, resulting in unsightly brush and roller marks after the paint dries. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Use of lower quality paint
• Application of additional paint to “touch up” partially dried painted areas.
• Re-brushing or re-rolling partially dried painted areas.
• Use of the wrong type of roller cover or poor quality brush.

SOLUTION: Florida Painting only use top quality latex paints and materials, which are generally formulated with ingredients that enhance paint flow. Brush and roller marks thus tend to “flow out” and form a smooth film. brush is important; a poor brush can result in bad flow and leveling with any paint.

8. How to prevent poor resistance?

Description: Wearing away or removal of the paint film when scrubbed with a brush, sponge, or cloth. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Choosing the wrong sheen for the area.
• Use of a lower quality paint.
• Use of an overly aggressive scrub medium (see Burnishing).
• Inadequate dry time allowed after application of the paint before washing it.

SOLUTION: Areas that need frequent cleaning require a high quality paint formulated to provide such performance. High traffic areas may require a semigloss or gloss paint rather than a flat paint to provide good scrub resistance.

9. How to prevent roller marks / “stiple”?

Description: Unintentional textured pattern left in the paint by the roller. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Use of incorrect roller cover.
• Use of lower grades of paint.
• Use of low quality roller.
• Use of incorrect rolling technique.

SOLUTION: Florida Painting only use quality roller to ensure adequate film thickness and uniformity. High quality paints tend to roll on more evenly due to their higher solids content and leveling properties.

10. How to prevent poor stain resistance?

Description: Failure of the paint to resist absorption of dirt and stains. POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Use of lower quality paint that is porous in nature.
• Application of paint to unprimed substrate.

SOLUTION: Higher quality latex paints contain more binder, which helps prevent stains from penetrating the painted surface, allowing for easy removal. Priming new surfaces provides maximum film thickness of a premium top coat, providing very good stain removability.

There are many factors that will determine the amount of paint that is used in a project, such as the type of surface being covered, the color of the existing surface, and the color of the chosen paint. A general rule is to calculate the square footage of the surfaces to be painted, and divide by the number of square feet that your selected paint indicates it can cover. For best results, take your measurements and paint information to your local paint retailer.

When it comes to paint, you get what you pay for. More expensive paints have better quality ingredients, and this accounts for the difference in price. By using better ingredients (and higher priced paint), you will generally get better durability, flow, and overall quality. This will help to keep your paint in good condition for a longer time, which saves you time and money in the long run..

Water-based paints are generally easier to clean up and to use, so they are generally preferred by do-it-yourselfers. High quality latex paints also have better adhesion and higher resistance to bleaching and fading. However, both types of paint will do an excellent job for everyday use..

These terms indicate the sheen or gloss level, or degree or light reflectance, of the paint. Basically, these are terms that are used to describe a paint’s shininess.

• Finish Where to Use: Kitchen and bathroom walls, kitchen cabinets, banisters and railings, trim, furniture, door jambs and window sills. Comments: More durable, stain-resistant and easier to wash. However, the higher the gloss, the more likely surface imperfections will be noticed.

• Semi-gloss Where to use: Kitchen and bathroom walls, hallways, children’s rooms, playrooms, doors, woodwork and trim. Comments: More stain-resistant and easier to clean than flat paints. Better than flat for high-traffic areas.

• Satin or Silk (Range overlapping eggshell and semi-gloss) Where to use: Similar characteristics to semi-gloss and eggshell. Comments: Similar characteristics to semi-gloss and eggshell.

• Eggshell Where to use: Can be used in place of flat paints on wall surfaces especially in halls, bathrooms and playrooms. Can be used in place of semi-gloss paints on trim for a less shiny appearance. Comments: It resists stains better than flat paint and gives a more lustrous appearance.

• Flat What to use: For general use on walls and ceilings. Hides surface imperfections. Comments: Stain removal can be difficult. Use for uniform, non-reflecting appearance. Best suited for low-traffic areas.

• Matte Same characteristics as flat.

Yes! Simply place a larger piece of pasted wallcovering over the tear so that it makes an exact match with the wallcovering on the wall. Use a razor knife to double-cut through both layers around the tear. Remove the layers and then clean the exposed wall area. Repaste the new outer piece into the area. Note: an irregular, wavy cut following the design in the wallcovering will make your cut less noticeable.